On the outside of your house, inspect all areas where two different building materials meet, including:

• All exterior corners
• Outdoor water faucets
• Where siding and chimneys meet
• Areas where the foundation and the bottom of exterior brick or siding meet.

Inside your home, inspect around the following areas for any cracks and gaps that could cause air leaks:

• Electrical outlets
• Switch plates
• Door and window frames
• Electrical and gas service entrances
• Baseboards
• Weather stripping around doors
• Fireplace dampers
• Attic hatches
• Wall- or window-mounted air conditioners.
• Cable TV and phone lines
• Where dryer vents pass through walls
• Vents and fans.

Also look for gaps around pipes and wires, foundation seals, and mail slots. Check to see if the caulking and weather stripping are applied properly, leaving no gaps or cracks, and are in good condition. Check the exterior caulking around doors and windows, and see whether exterior storm doors and primary doors seal tightly.

Inspect windows and doors for air leaks. See if you can rattle them, since movement means possible air leaks. If you can see daylight around a door or window frame, then the door or window leaks. You can usually seal these leaks by caulking or weatherstripping them. Check the storm windows to see if they fit and are not broken.

You may also wish to consider replacing your old windows and doors with newer, high-performance ones. If new factory-made doors or windows are too costly, you can install low-cost plastic sheets over the windows.

If you are having difficulty locating leaks, you may want to conduct a basic building pressurization test to increase infiltration through cracks and leaks, making them easier to detect:
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1. Turn off all combustion appliances such as gas burning furnaces and water heaters on a cool, very windy day.
2. Shut all windows, exterior doors, and fireplace flues.
3. Turn on all exhaust fans that blow air outside, such as your clothes dryer, bathroom fans, or stove vents, or use a large window fan to suck the air out of the rooms.
4. Light an incense stick and pass it around the edges of common leak sites. Wherever the smoke wavers or is sucked out of or blown into the room, there's a draft. You can also use a damp hand to locate leaks; any drafts will feel cool to your hand.

If you don't want to turn off your furnace, you can just turn on all your exhaust fans to depressurize your home.
Other air-leak detection methods include the following:
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• Shining flashlight at night over all potential gaps while a partner observes the house from outside. Large cracks will show up as rays of light. Not a good way to detect small cracks.
• Shut a door or window on a dollar bill. If you can pull the dollar bill out without it dragging, you're losing energy.

Refrigerators & Freezers

• Cover all liquids stored in the refrigerator. Otherwise, moisture can be drawn into the air, making the unit work harder.
• Avoid storing your freezer unit in the garage, where temperatures above 90° F can cause it to use more electricity.
• Replace a refrigerator that is more than 15 years old. A new refrigerator with the ENERGY STAR® label can be as much as 40 percent more energy efficient than older models.

Dryers

• Dry two or more loads of laundry in a row to take advantage of the heat that builds up during the previous cycle.
• Clean the lint tray in your clothes dryer after every load, and clean the vent to the outside once a month.
• Use the moisture sensor option on your dryer. This feature automatically shuts off the machine when the clothes are dry.*

Washers

• Run large loads, instead of several smaller ones, to cut down on electricity usage.
• Pick washers with high spin speeds to reduce drying time. Front-load washers use less water and up to two-thirds less electricity than top-loading models.
• Use cold water for the wash and rinse cycles to conserve electricity. Most of the electricity consumed by washing machines is for heating water.

Dishwashers

• Avoid using the heat drying feature on your dishwasher, as this increases electricity consumption.
• Wait until your dishwasher is full before using it. This is one of the simplest ways to reduce electricity usage.
• Make sure to purchase a dishwasher with the ENERGY STAR® label when replacing or upgrading your dishwasher.

Stoves & Range Tops

• Avoid heating the inside of your home and lower your electricity use by grilling outside during the summer. The more a room heats up, the more electricity an AC unit has to use in order to maintain a cooler temperature.
• Use a slow-cooker to cook stews and other single-dish meals. This will help you save on electricity since a slow-cooker uses less electricity than a stove top.
• Cook with covered pans that have tight-fitting lids to allow contents to heat faster, reducing electricity use.

​*Source: ENERGY STAR®

Heating

• Lower your thermostat to reduce electricity usage. 
  For every degree above 68°F, expect an approximate three to five percent increase in your heating costs. 
• Reduce the thermostat on your water heater to 120°F. 
  You could save three to five percent in energy costs per year. 
• Rotate your ceiling fan clockwise at a lower speed during the winter. 
  This will force cooler air upward, reducing how much you need to run your heater to keep your home warm.

Air Conditioner

• Take control of your costs by following the four-by-four principle. 
  When your thermostat is set below 78°F, each degree cooler may increase your costs by up to seven percent during summer months. Setting your thermostat four degrees higher when you’re away for more than four hours can help reduce electricity usage and costs.
• Resist the urge to override your automatic A/C fan settings. 
  Set your A/C fan to the “auto” position rather than the “on” position. Using the “on” fan setting can increase your costs and cause more transference of attic heat via the ductwork, making the A/C work harder to maintain your desired temperature.
• Schedule an annual A/C checkup. 
  Early spring is a good time to schedule a tune-up with an A/C service professional. Schedule your multi-point AC Tune-up provided by Allied Warranty to ensure that your system is running at its best.

Air Filters

• Choose the appropriate filter for your home. 
  The type of filter best suited for your home depends on the amount of return air your HVAC system both requires and receives. You can reference the EPA's Air Filters Guide for steps you can follow when choosing the type of filter your home needs. 
• Let us do the work for you. 
  It’s good practice to check filters monthly and replace when necessary, especially if you have pets or dusty conditions in your home. With Reliant Filters Made EasySM, convenience comes with a year-round service that will deliver replacement air filters for all of your heating and cooling systems right to your door, at the time increments you specify.

Attic

• Know when your house was built. 
  More than 80 percent of homes built prior to 1980 lack adequate insulation. Save by sealing and insulating your attic hatch or door. 
• Make sure your house is well insulated. 
  Any house without insulation can lose up to 40 percent of heated or cooled air. The FREE Reliant Home Energy Checkup is a great way to find out the efficiency of your insulation and home overall.

Air Distribution & Ventilation

• Check your air vents regularly. 
  If air is not being distributed effectively or if your air supply system obstructed, your system will not operate efficiently. 
• Add more attic ventilation. 
  You can add ventilation in a variety of ways, including installing more soffits and/or ridge vents within your home. 
• Keep your ductwork properly insulated and sealed to prevent air loss. 
  Not doing so may result in 40 percent higher heating and cooling costs that can also cause excess dust and humidity in your home.

Computers & Laptops

• Configure your monitor to turn off or enter power-saving mode after 5-20 minutes of inactivity, and also program your hard drive to turn off shortly after. Screensavers do not save power.*
• Turn off both your computer and power strip (if using one) when you are away from the computer. 
• Adjust the brightness of your monitor.  Lower levels will use less power.
• Upgrade to a flat-panel LCD monitor, which uses a third of the electricity of CRT monitors.
• Look for power-saving ENERGY STAR® monitors.

Miscellaneous Electronics (tablets, laptops, cellular devices and portable electronics)

• Unplug devices when they’re not in use. 
  When a device is not powered on, it can still use electricity. 
• Unplug devices that are sufficiently charged. 
  Leaving a device plugged in that is already fully charge can waste electricity. 
• Laptops, tablets and smartphones generally use less power than desktop models. 
  If you are concerned about saving energy and purchasing a computer, you might consider purchasing a smaller or more efficient device.

​*Source: ENERGY STAR®

Choose a type of weatherstripping that will withstand the friction, weather, temperature changes, and wear and tear associated with its location. For example, when applied to a door bottom or threshold, weatherstripping could drag on carpet or erode as a result of foot traffic. Weatherstripping in a window sash must accommodate the sliding of panes -- up and down, sideways, or out. The weatherstripping you choose should seal well when the door or window is closed but allow it to open freely.

Choose a product for each specific location. Felt and open-cell foams tend to be inexpensive, susceptible to weather, visible, and inefficient at blocking airflow. However, the ease of applying these materials may make them valuable in low-traffic areas. Vinyl, which is slightly more expensive, holds up well and resists moisture. Metals (bronze, copper, stainless steel, and aluminum) last for years and are affordable. Metal weatherstripping can also provide a nice touch to older homes where vinyl might seem out of place.
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You can use more than one type of weatherstripping to seal an irregularly shaped space. Also take durability into account when comparing costs. See table below for information about the common types of weatherstripping.

To determine how much weatherstripping you will need, add the perimeters of all windows and doors to be weatherstripped, then add 5% to 10% to accommodate any waste. Also consider that weatherstripping comes in varying depths and widths.

Weatherstripping supplies and techniques range from simple to the technical. Consult the instructions on the weatherstripping package.

Here are a few basic guidelines:

• Weatherstripping should be applied to clean, dry surfaces in temperatures above 20°F (-7° C).
• Measure the area to be weatherstripped twice before making a cut.
• Apply weatherstripping snugly against both surfaces. The material should compress when the window or door is shut.

When weatherstripping doors:

• Choose the appropriate door sweeps and thresholds for the bottom of the doors.
• Weatherstrip the entire door jamb.
• Apply one continuous strip along each side.
• Make sure the weatherstripping meets tightly at the corners.
• Use a thickness that causes the weatherstripping to press tightly between the door and the door jamb when the door closes without making it difficult to shut.

​For air sealing windows, apply weatherstripping between the sash and the frame. The weatherstripping shouldn't interfere with the operation of the window.

Most caulking compounds come in disposable cartridges that fit in half-barrel caulking guns (if possible, purchase one with an automatic release). Some pressurized cartridges do not require caulking guns.

When deciding how much caulking to purchase, consider that you'll probably need a half-cartridge per window or door and four cartridges for the foundation sill of an average home. Caulking compounds can also be found in aerosol cans, squeeze tubes, and ropes for small jobs or special applications.
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Caulking compounds vary in strength, properties, and prices. Water-based caulk can be cleaned with water, while solvent-based compounds require a solvent for cleanup. See the table below for information about common caulking compounds.

Although not a high-tech operation, caulking can be tricky. Read and follow the instructions on the compound cartridge, and remember these tips:

• For good adhesion, clean all areas to be caulked. Remove any old caulk and paint, using a putty knife, large screwdriver, stiff brush, or special solvent. Make sure the area is dry so you don't seal in moisture.
• Apply caulk to all joints in a window frame and the joint between the frame and the wall.
• Hold the gun at a consistent angle. Forty-five degrees is best for getting deep into the crack. You know you've got the right angle when the caulk is immediately forced into the crack as it comes out of the tube.
• Caulk in one straight continuous stream, if possible. Avoid stops and starts.
• Send caulk to the bottom of an opening to avoid bubbles.
• Make sure the caulk sticks to both sides of a crack or seam.
• Release the trigger before pulling the gun away to avoid applying too much caulking compound. A caulking gun with an automatic release makes this much easier.
• If caulk oozes out of a crack, use a putty knife to push it back in.
• Don't skimp. If the caulk shrinks, reapply it to form a smooth bead that will seal the crack completely.

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The best time to apply caulk is during dry weather when the outdoor temperature is above 45°F (7.2°C). Low humidity is important during application to prevent cracks from swelling with moisture. Warm temperatures are also necessary so the caulk will set properly and adhere to the surfaces.

You can improve the energy efficiency of existing windows by adding storm windows, caulking and weatherstripping, and using window treatments or coverings.
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Adding storm windows can reduce air leakage and improve comfort. Caulking and weatherstripping can reduce air leakage around windows. Use caulk for stationary cracks, gaps, or joints less than one-quarter-inch wide, and weatherstripping for building components that move, such as doors and operable windows. Window treatments or coverings can reduce heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Most window treatments, however, aren't effective at reducing air leakage or infiltration.

If your home has very old and/or inefficient windows, it might be more cost-effective to replace them than to try to improve their energy efficiency. New, energy-efficient windows eventually pay for themselves through lower heating and cooling costs, and sometimes even lighting costs.
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When properly selected and installed, energy-efficient windows can help minimize your heating, cooling, and lighting costs. Improving window performance in your home involves design, selection, and installation.

Windows are an important element in passive solar home design, which uses solar energy at the site to provide heating, cooling, and lighting for a house. Passive solar design strategies vary by building location and regional climate, but the basic window guidelines remain the same—select, orient, and size glass to maximize solar heat gain in winter and minimize it in summer.
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In heating-dominated climates, major glazing areas should generally face south to collect solar heat during the winter when the sun is low in the sky. In the summer, when the sun is high overhead, overhangs or other shading devices prevent excessive heat gain.

To be effective, south-facing windows should have a solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) of greater than 0.6 to maximize solar heat gain during the winter, a U-factor of 0.35 or less to reduce conductive heat transfer, and a high visible transmittance (VT) for good visible light transfer. See Energy Performance Ratings to learn more about these ratings.

Windows on east-, west-, and north-facing walls should be minimized while still allowing for adequate daylight. It is difficult to control heat and light through east- and west-facing windows when the sun is low in the sky, and these windows should have a low SHGC and/or be shaded. North-facing windows collect little solar heat, so they are used only for lighting. Low-emissivity (low-e) window glazing can help control solar heat gain and loss in heating climates.

In cooling climates, particularly effective strategies include preferential use of north-facing windows and generously shaded south-facing windows. Windows with low SHGCs are more effective at reducing cooling loads.

Some types of glazing help reduce solar heat gain, lowering a window's SHGC. Low-e coatings—microscopically thin, virtually invisible metal or metallic oxide layers deposited directly on the surface of glass—control heat transfer through windows with insulated glazing. Tinted glass absorbs a large fraction of incoming solar radiation through a window, reflective coatings reduce the transmission of solar radiation, and spectrally selective coatings filter out 40% to 70% of the heat normally transmitted through insulated window glass or glazing, while allowing the full amount of light to be transmitted. Except for spectrally selective, these types of glazing also lower a window's VT. See Window Types to learn more about glazing, coatings, tints, and other options when selecting efficient windows.

If you're constructing a new home or doing some major remodeling, you should also take advantage of the opportunity to incorporate your window design and selection as an integral part of your whole-house design—an approach for building an energy-efficient home.

• Look for the ENERGY STAR® label.
• Check with local utilities to see what rebates or other incentives are available for window replacement.
• Choose high-performance windows that have at least two panes of glass and a low-e coating.
• Choose a low U-factor for better insulation in colder climates; the U-factor is the rate at which a window, door, or skylight conducts non-solar heat flow.
• Look for a low solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)—this is a measure of solar radiation admitted through a window, door, or skylight. Low SHGCs reduce heat gain in warm climates.
• Select windows with both low U-factors and low SHGCs to maximize energy savings in temperate climates with both cold and hot seasons.
• Look for whole-unit U-factors and SHGCs, rather than center-of-glass (COG) U-factors and SHGCs. Whole-unit numbers more accurately reflect the energy performance of the entire product.
• Have your windows installed by trained professionals according to manufacturer's instructions; otherwise, your warranty may be void.

Consider windows with impact-resistant glass if you live along a coast or in areas with flying debris from storms.

LOCATE AIR LEAKS

First, make a list of obvious air leaks (drafts). The potential energy savings from reducing drafts in a home may range from 5% to 30% per year, and the home is generally much more comfortable afterward.

Check for indoor air leaks, such as gaps along the baseboard or edge of the flooring and at junctures of the walls and ceiling. Also check for leaks on the outside of your home, especially in areas where two different building materials meet. 

Seal Air Leaks
You should plug and caulk holes or penetrations for faucets, pipes, electric outlets, and wiring. Look for cracks and holes in the mortar, foundation, and siding, and look for leaks around windows and doors. Seal them with the appropriate material. Learn more about selecting and applying caulk and weatherstripping.

Consider Ventilation
When sealing any home, you must always be aware of the danger of indoor air pollution and combustion appliance "backdrafts." Backdrafting is when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the home compete for air. An exhaust fan may pull the combustion gases back into the living space. This can obviously create a very dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.

In homes where a fuel is burned (i.e., natural gas, fuel oil, propane, or wood) for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally, one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. Burn marks or soot around the appliance burner or at the vent collar, or visible smoke anywhere in the utility room while the appliance is operating, indicate poor draft. When in doubt, contact your local utility company, energy professional, or ventilation contractor. Learn more about proper ventilation.

CHECK INSULATION

Heat loss through the ceiling and walls in your home could be very large if the insulation levels are less than the recommended minimum. When your house was built, the builder likely installed the amount of insulation recommended at that time. Given today's energy prices (and future prices that will probably be higher), the level of insulation might be inadequate, especially if you have an older home.

If the attic hatch is located above a conditioned space, check to see if it is at least as heavily insulated as the attic, is weather stripped, and closes tightly. In the attic, determine whether openings for items such as pipes, ductwork, and chimneys are sealed. Seal any gaps with an expanding foam caulk or some other permanent sealant. When sealing gaps around chimneys or other heat producing devices, be sure to use a non-combustible sealant.

While you are inspecting the attic, check to see if there is a vapor barrier under the attic insulation. The vapor barrier might be tarpaper, Kraft paper attached to fiberglass batts, or a plastic sheet. If there does not appear to be a vapor barrier, you might consider painting the interior ceilings with vapor barrier paint. This reduces the amount of water vapor that can pass through the ceiling. Large amounts of moisture can reduce the effectiveness of insulation and promote structural damage.

Make sure that the attic vents are not blocked by insulation. You also should seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling with flexible caulk (from the living room side or attic side) and cover the entire attic floor with at least the current recommended amount of insulation.

Checking a wall's insulation level is more difficult. Select an exterior wall and turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse for any outlets in the wall. Be sure to test the outlets to make certain that they are not "hot."

Check the outlet by plugging in a functioning lamp or portable radio. Once you are sure your outlets are not getting any electricity, remove the cover plate from one of the outlets and gently probe into the wall with a thin, long stick or screwdriver. A plastic crochet hook is particularly suited, as it will retrieve small bits of any insulation material for easy identification. If you encounter a slight resistance, you have some insulation there. You could also make a small hole in a closet, behind a couch, or in some other unobtrusive place to see what, if anything, the wall cavity is filled with. Ideally, the wall cavity should be totally filled with some form of insulation material. Unfortunately, this method cannot tell you if the entire wall is insulated, or if the insulation has settled. Only a thermographic inspection can do this.

If your basement or crawlspace is unconditioned and open to the exterior, determine whether there is insulation under the living area flooring. In most areas of the country, an R-value of 25 is the recommended minimum level of insulation. If the sub-space is enclosed and contains heating or cooling appliances, air ducts or plumbing, you should probably insulate the sub-space perimeter rather than the living space floor. The insulation at the top of the foundation wall and first floor perimeter should have an R-value of 19 or greater. If the basement is intentionally conditioned, the foundation walls should also be insulated to at least R-19. Your water heater, hot water pipes, and furnace ducts should all be insulated. For more information, see our insulation section.

INSPECT HEATING AND COOLING EQUIPMENT

Inspect heating and cooling equipment annually, or as recommended by the manufacturer. If you have a forced-air furnace, check your filters and replace them as needed. Generally, you should change them about once every month or two, especially during periods of high usage. Have a professional check and clean your equipment once a year.

If the unit is more than 15 years old, you should consider replacing your system with one of the newer, energy-efficient units. A new unit would greatly reduce your energy consumption, especially if the existing equipment is in poor condition. Check your ductwork for dirt streaks, especially near seams. These indicate air leaks, and they should be sealed with a duct mastic. Insulate any ducts or pipes that travel through unheated spaces. An insulation R-Value of 6 is the recommended minimum.

LIGHTING

Energy for lighting accounts for about 10% of your electric bill. Examine the light bulbs in your house and consider replacing inefficient bulbs with a more efficient choice, such as energy-saving incandescents, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), or light-emitting diodes (LEDs). When shopping for bulbs, consider the brightness of the bulbs you want and look for lumens and the Lighting Facts label. Your electric utility may offer rebates or other incentives for purchasing energy-efficient lamps.

APPLIANCES AND ELECTRONICS

The appliances and electronics you choose and how you use them affect your energy use and costs. Examine the appliances and electronics in your home and estimate their energy use. Consider strategies for reducing the energy use of your appliances and electronics.

You might consider the following:

• Unplugging an item when it is not in use to prevent phantom loads
• Changing the settings or using the item less often
• Purchasing a new, more efficient product. Learn more about shopping for efficient appliances and electronics.

PROFESSIONAL HOME ENERGY AUDIT

Once you have finished your do-it-yourself audit, consider calling in a pro to complete a more thorough assessment. Your self-assessment can help the auditor better analyze your home and potential areas for saving. Learn more about professional home energy audits from Sherman Window Replacement.

A window's energy efficiency is dependent upon all of its components. Window frames conduct heat, contributing to a window's overall energy efficiency, particularly its U-factor. Glazing or glass technologies have become very sophisticated, and designers often specify different types of glazing or glass for different windows, based on orientation, climate, building design, etc.

Another important consideration is how the windows operate, because some operating types have lower air leakage rates than others, which will improve your home's energy efficiency. Traditional operating types include:
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• Awning. Hinged at the top and open outward. Because the sash closes by pressing against the frame, they generally have lower air leakage rates than sliding windows.
• Casement. Hinged at the sides. Like awning windows, they generally have lower air leakage rates than sliding windows because the sash closes by pressing against the frame.
• Fixed. Fixed panes that don't open. When installed properly they're airtight, but are not suitable in places where window ventilation is desired.
• Hopper. Hinged at the bottom and open inward. Like both awning and casement, they generally have lower air leakage rates because the sash closes by pressing against the frame.
• Single- and double-hung. Both sashes slide vertically in a double-hung window. Only the bottom sash slides upward in a single-hung window. These sliding windows generally have higher air leakage rates than projecting or hinged windows.
• Single- and double-sliding. Both sashes slide horizontally in a double-sliding window. Only one sash slides in a single-sliding window. Like single- and double-hung windows, they generally have higher air leakage rates than projecting or hinged windows.

Even the most energy-efficient window must be properly installed to ensure energy efficiency. Therefore, it's best to have a professional install your windows.

Window installation varies depending on the type of window, the construction of the house (wood, masonry, etc.), the exterior cladding (wood siding, stucco, brick, etc.), and the type (if any) of weather-restrictive barrier.

Windows should be installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and be properly air sealed during installation to perform correctly. To air seal the window, caulk the frame and weatherstrip the operable components.